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Outdoor Living


Here’s what might become my annual guide to the great outdoors/indoors. As I was thinking about what I wish for my friends/family this year, I realized that I wish all of us had more time to enjoy each other and the great outdoors.

In the spirit of SLOWING down, quiet contemplation, enjoying the well-being that only a day outside can bring and remembering what life is all about, I offer the following for your consideration.

Let me know if you check out any of these and what your experience is like.

Wilbur Hot Springs, 530-473-2306 “sanctuary for the self where quietude is revered and conservation is a way of life.” My new, absolutely favorite spot for a getaway in comfort. I’ve even seen two bobcats on early morning strolls. About 2 hours NE of the Bay Area, close to Full Belly Farm and Cache Creek. I ‘ve only camped. ($45 a day) They have communal and private rooms too.

Some of the other places I like can be found on the California State Parks website or by calling 800-444-PARK. You can now book 6 months in advance which is essential for some holiday weekends in the summer.

Mt Diablo State Park-Juniper Camp near the summit. I camped there many times and each was a totally different experience. I went on a weekday, twice after rush hour but you have to enter the southern entrance before dusk. On one night we could see the Farallon Islands (off SF) at sunset. I like to rise at dawn and climb from here past a magnificent laurel grove to the lookout tower. They don’t let cars in before 8am, so you practically have the park to yourself. Kids (and the kid at heart) like to explore Rock City near the southern entrance. I got the worst case of poison oak there last spring so be forewarned.

Morgan Territory, east of Mt Diablo.Great for spring hiking. The wildflowers are outrageous with great views of Mt Diablo and Los Vaqueros Reservoir. We saw a huge rattlesnake later in the spring/early summer so beware! For free map/brochure call 510-635-0135. This is part of the East Bay Regional Park system.

Kayaking at Elkhorn Slough. This precious wildlife-rich reserve winds 7 miles inland and provides an important feeding and resting place for the endangered sea otter, harbor seals and hundreds of species of waterfowl and migratory shorebirds. You can signup with an outfitter like Blue Waters Kayaking 415-669-2600 ($85) or just rent kayaks at Kayak Connection 408-724-5692 ($25??) if you have some experience. There’s also a two-hour safari nature tour on a pontoon boat for $22.50 adults and $17.50 kids. I ‘ve combined kayaking the slough with camping along the coast or you might want to stay at the Pidgeon Pt Hostel where they have some private rooms and a truly amazing private hot tub next to the crashing Pacific surf. 415-(I think prefix has changed) 879-0600

For Nancy’s 40th birthday we took the plunge and went on the Oceanic Society’s tour of the Farollon Islands ($60-$65). OK, according to the guides we had an exceptional day for sighting--leatherback turtles, doll porpoises, gray and blue whales, puffins and more! It’s a long day (8 hours) of being on a boat and even with the Dramamine I had a few minutes of seasickness. Nancy and Eve had the patches and fared better. Don’t bring kids along and don’t go if you have a propensity to seasickness. But if you want to get a glimpse of the magnitiude of the water that surrounds us, treat yourself 415-474-3385.

West Point Inn, Mt Tamalpais. Most folks don’t know about this funky old inn that used to service the train from Mill Valley to Bolinas. The cabins are perched on the side of the mountain with spectacular views of SF and the Bay. Don’t come looking for a great night’s sleep. The beds are old and the weather, wind and morning sun will get you up early. This is a delightful place to cook a meal, hang out with friends on the wrap around porch and have a romantic tryst. You have to walk 2 miles in and bring your food but the walk’s not steep coming from Pantoll. A more scenic hike in starts in the parking lot of the Mt Home Inn. $25 a night. 415-646-0702. You can reserve the whole inn for $600 and it sleeps around 25.

Angel Island. I love starting out from my house, riding down to take the ferry from Jack London Square and over to the island. Best to bring a bike, layers of clothes, a nice lunch and go around the whole island. It can get a bit crowded for my tastes on beautiful sunny summer days, but beat the crowds and check out the Perles Beach (it’s a trek down so most folks don’t go). Camping here is also fun. Sites 1, 2 and 6 are protected from the wind. This fall, a group of us sailed to the island and stayed in the boat overnight. You can rent boats from Olympic Saling Club at the Berkeley Marina, but you need to have a skipper and first mate! Ferry 415-705-5555. $13, includes park admission. Kids are less. A State Park. Call 800-444-PARK

Take Amtrak roundtrip to Sacramento for $24! Or stop in Martinez at John Muir’s house! I’ve been taking the train to visit my sis and it’s perfect for kids (they ride free). Last June, I made the pilgrimmage to John Muir’s old home and orchard in Martinez. I took my bike and enjoyed a short ride to the great environmentalist’s home and museum. It takes 2 hours to get to Sac where you can visit Old Sac complete with a superb train museum. You pass through a great marsh near Suisun City and I’ve spotted buffleheads, a blue heron and lots of other migrating birds.

For the truly adventurous who have more than a weekend, I think you can’t beat a few days in the Eastern Sierra. Tioga Pass through Yosemite is usually open July-Oct and from Bridegport along Hwy 395 there are some amazing natural hot springs, my favorite being Travertine Hot Springs. I’ve been there in the middle of winter when you ski or walk through the snow for a mile or so. To watch the sunset from the heat of the springs is truly one of life’s special moments. An amusing and reasonable place to stay in Brideport is an old brothel called the Victorian House (I think).

New this year:

Steep Ravine Environmental Campground. I’m still amazed by the number of my friends who have yet to experience this gem practically in our own backyard, south of Stinson Beach, along Hwy 1.You practically have to call 6 months to the day to reserve the cabins (which come with nada). I prefer the campsites and they’re not that hard to reserve if you call 2-3 months out. This summer we saw an amazing skeleton of a gray whale that had died because of global warming. As the ocean temps rise, the plankton die off and a record number of whales are dying. A State Park.

Julia Pfeiffer Environmental Campground in Big Sur. A State park with only 2 sites, you have to reserve early, but you’ll be rewarded with tranquility galore. We saw adorable sea otters under the cliffs and a baby red fox wandered next to our campfire. A butt-kicking hike that ends with fantastic views of the Big Sur coastline (Edwoldsen Trail) begins in the parking lot. And, of course, there’s always the cocktails at Nepenthe, to make it the ultimate camping experience.

Kabuki Hot Springs 1750 Geary in San Francisco
I recently spent an afternoon here ($12 before 5pm, $16 after) and was completely refreshed by the hot water and dry sauna. Don’t get there too late on women’s days (Sun, Wed, Fri 10am-10pm) as you may have to wait. Finish up with a bowl of noodles upstairs in the Japan Center.
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